The Ford 800 Series and the 600 Series look so alike that sellers mix them up all the time, and so do buyers. The difference is under the hood and in the rear end: the 800 has the 172 cu in engine and a heavier differential, and it's the one most people want for loader work, a bigger mower or a three-bottom plow. If you're looking at a gray-and-red Ford utility tractor with an 800 emblem, the questions are whether it really is an 800, which 800 it is, and what condition it's in.

This page covers how to confirm all three. For the meaning of each digit in the model number, see Decoding Ford Hundred Series Model Numbers; this page doesn't repeat the full chart.

What an 800 is

The 800 is a four-wheel utility tractor with an adjustable front axle and Ford's 172 cu in overhead-valve four-cylinder, gasoline or LP-gas. It was introduced alongside the 600 in late 1954 as a 1955 model and built through 1957. According to the N Tractor Club, the 800's hood was raised about 2 inches to fit a larger fuel tank, and its rear differential and housing are larger and stronger than the 600's (Quick ID guide).

Tractor Data lists four 800 Series models: the 820, 840, 850 and 860.

8204-speed, no PTO, no three-point lift
8404-speed with PTO and three-point lift
8505-speed with three-point lift and PTO (not live)
8605-speed with three-point lift and live PTO

Confirming it's an 800, not a 600

Check these in order. The first one is the only one that can't be faked with swapped parts, so start there.

  1. The stamping. On the left side, on the flat pad above and behind the starter, the model number is stamped above the serial. A first digit of 8 means 800 Series.
  2. The engine casting. On the lower right side of the block, look for the cast part number. EAF 6015 is the 1953–1957 172; EAE 6015 is the 134 used in the 600 and 700.
  3. The fuel tank and hood. Tractor Data lists 14 gallons for the 860 against 11 for the 640. The 800's taller hood is easiest to see with a 600 parked beside it.
  4. Tires. Original sizes were 6.00-16 front and 12-28 rear on the 860, against 5.50-16 and 11-28 on the 640. Tires get replaced, so treat this as a hint, not proof.

The wheelbase won't help: Tractor Data lists about 75.2 inches for both the 640 and the 860.

Telling it from other look-alikes

From a 900. The 900 is the high-clearance row-crop with the same engine, usually with a tricycle front and an 85-inch wheelbase. The stamping starts with 9. See the 900 Series page.

From an 801 Powermaster (1958–1962). The 01-series Powermaster has a third digit of 1 (841, 861, 871 with Select-O-Speed), a red hood center with gray sides, and an egg-crate grille. The Hundred Series 800 has the earlier NAA-style grille.

Reading and dating the serial

Hundred Series serials: 1954, 1–10,614; 1955, 10,615–77,270; 1956, 77,271–116,367; 1957, 116,368 and up (N Tractor Club; Tractor Data gives the same starting numbers). The serial sits between two diamond symbols, below the model number.

Worked example (made-up numbers): 860 over ◇118502◇. First digit 8: utility, 172. Middle digit 6: five-speed, live PTO. Third digit 0: Hundred Series. 118502 is above 116,368, so it's a 1957 Ford 860.

For a real one, the N Tractor Club guide pictures a stamping of 850 over ◇93706◇, which decodes to a 1956 Ford 850.

Specifications

EngineFord 172 cu in 4-cylinder overhead-valve, gasoline or LP-gas
Power45.4 belt hp and 39.0 drawbar hp tested (860)
Transmission4-speed or 5-speed unsynchronized, depending on model
HydraulicsThree-point hitch, 1,250 lb rated lift (none on the 820)
Electrical6-volt
Wheelbase / weight75.2 in / about 3,400 lb (860)
BuiltLate 1954 through 1957 (1955–1957 model years)

Figures from Tractor Data. For comparison, Tractor Data lists 31 tested belt hp for a 640, so an 860 has roughly 45 percent more power.

Why the 860 is the one people want

The 860 combines the 172 with a five-speed and a live PTO through a two-stage clutch. The fifth gear gives a useful road speed, and the live PTO keeps a mower turning while the tractor stops. It's about as capable as a small vintage Ford utility gets while still being simple to work on, which is why it's the 800 most buyers go looking for.

What to check before buying or reviving one

  • Loader damage. Many 800s have carried loaders for decades. Look for cracks or welds at the front axle support and where the loader frame bolts on, bent radius rods, and play in the steering and spindles.
  • The two-stage clutch on an 860. With the PTO engaged and running, push the clutch halfway: the tractor should stop while the PTO keeps turning. Push it all the way and the PTO should stop. A PTO that quits at halfway needs clutch work.
  • Engine condition. Check for blue smoke and heavy blow-by from the breather once it's warm, coolant in the oil, and oil in the radiator.
  • The lift. Raise a heavy implement, shut down, and watch whether it settles over several minutes.
  • Water in the gear oil. Drain a little from the bottom of the transmission and rear end. Milky oil means water, common on tractors stored outside.
  • Electrics. The 6-volt, positive-ground system is often converted to 12 volts. Find out which you have before charging or replacing the battery; the 6-volt battery maintainer guide covers winter storage.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Paying 800 money for a 600. Emblems and hoods move between tractors. Read the stamping and the block casting before you talk price.
  • Paying 860 money for an 850. Both have five speeds. Only the 860 has the two-stage clutch and live PTO; on an 850 the PTO stops when you clutch.
  • Ordering rear-end parts from a 600 listing. The 800's differential and housing are larger, so axle, differential and brake parts can differ. Order by the model stamping.
  • Ignoring a swapped engine. An 800 stamping over an EAE block has a 134 in it, with about a third less power than you're paying for.
  • Connecting a 12-volt battery to an unconverted system. On a 6-volt, positive-ground tractor that can ruin the starter, generator and gauges.